WEIGHTS and DIMENSIONS

 

The weights listed below do not include skewers or rim tape.  Weights are based on standard 20/24 spoke count builds.  These weights are for reference, some variation is to be expected.  Please contact me if you have any questions or would like additional information. 

Wheel Set

38mm Carbon Clincher

50mm Carbon Clincher

60mm Carbon Clincher

50mm Carbon Clincher (wide) 

38mm Carbon Tubular

50mm Carbon Tubular

Pacenti SL23

Kinlin XC-279

Kinlin XR-200

Front

605 grams

660 grams

715 grams

700 grams

520 grams

585 grams

645 grams

700 grams

570 grams

Rear

765 grams

820 grams

880 grams

870 grams

680 grams

745 grams

800 grams

855 grams

750 grams

Total

1370 grams

1480 grams

1595 grams

1570 grams

1200 grams

1330 grams

1445 grams

1555 grams

1320 grams

Width / Depth

23mm / 38mm

23mm / 50mm

23mm / 60mm

25mm / 50mm

23mm / 38mm

23mm / 50mm

24mm / 26mm

23mm / 28mm

19mm / 22mm

 

TOLERANCES

 

 

I'm sure that  you have heard wheel building referred to as an art.  Maybe that is a little true but in my experience the biggest part of building quality wheels is patience.  Cutting corners only results in doing the work twice to get it right.  Gradually bringing up spoke tensions while frequently checking lateral and radial run out is the only way I know.  Each spoke has its tension checked many, many times during any build.

My goal is to have primary spoke tensions (front wheel and drive side rear) vary no more than +/- 5%.  This is not always possible but it is the target.  I generally aim for spoke tensions of 85-100 kg on the front and 115-125 kg on the drive side rear.  This may vary depending on the rim and spoke selection.  I have found that good tension balance results in a more lively and responsive wheel while maintaining the wheel alignment.

 

The target for radial run out is less than +/- 0.10 mm.  Unfortunately almost every rim has a manufacturing tolerances that can make this a difficult, if not impossible goal.  Some people would say that I spend far too much time chasing this tolerance but I think it is one of the key ingredients that sets my wheels apart.

Every wheel is trued to within +/- 0.10 mm lateral run out.  Maybe obsessing about this to the point of 1/16th turns of the spoke wrench is extreme but that's just how I am.  You be the final judge on whether or not this kind of attention makes a difference.

wheel fanatyk tensiometer.jpg

CARBON FINISH

 

Most of the carbon rims that I use are UD matte finish.  UD stands for uni-directional.  This is the flat black appearance that is pretty common nowadays.  The rims are also available with 3k weave and/or a gloss finish.  Some will say that there is a slight weight or strength difference in the different finishes.  Honestly, I think the manufacturing variances are greater than any theoretical difference.  What am I trying to say?  Get the finish that makes you happy. 

UD matte (left) and 3k matte (right)

UD matte (left) and 3k matte (right)

CARBON RIM DO'S and DON'TS

These are some general guidelines for handling and caring for your carbon clinchers (and tubulars too.)  Carbon clincher technology, materials, and manufacturing have all improved by leaps and bounds over recent years.  That being said it is still advisable to treat carbon clinchers with respect and be aware of their limitations. 

 DO's

  • Inspect brake track and spoke holes regularly
  • Use carbon specific brake pads
  • Allow extra distance to stop in the wet
  • Enjoy riding them frequently

 DONT's

  • Ride them on long downhills that require extended braking
  • Use the same pads on your alloy rims
  • Exceed 120psi air pressure in your tires
  • Leave them in your hot car all day
  • Use metal tire irons